Escoffier At Home

Tag: brown roux

  • 0017. Sauce Espagnole Maigre, Fish Espagnole Sauce

    0017. Sauce Espagnole Maigre, Fish Espagnole Sauce

     

    Escoffier recipe for making sauce espagnole maigre, fish espagnole, or lenten espagnole sauce, at home (Escoffier, 17).

    Also called Lenten Espagnole, this sauce is made with fish fumét and mushrooms instead of brown stock and meat (usually salt pork or bacon) as in regular Espagnole. Guess you can get away with having this rich sauce during Lent, eh?

    I made a quick version of this sauce instead of the two-day Escoffier method. (Ha! Only 6 hours.)

    Classic Sauce Espagnole Maigre
    fish stock + brown roux + mirepoix + bouquet garni + mushrooms + butter + wine + tomato
    Classic Sauce Espagnole
    brown stock + brown roux + mirepoix + bouquet garni + salt pork + butter + wine + tomato
    Modern Sauce Espagnole
    brown stock + brown roux

    Mise en place:
    Mise en place for Fish Espagnole

     

    Sauce Espagnole Maigre

    In a large stockpot, sauté a mirepoix of diced carrots, onion, mushrooms, thyme and bay leaf in the butter until translucent.

    Saute the mirepoix

    Then add the tomato paste and let brown. Deglaze the pot with the dry white wine and reduce until almost dry.

    What kind of dry white wine is best for fish-based sauces?

    Ever notice they never say what kind to use? It’s always the very vague ‘dry white wine’ you’ll see in recipes. I’ve found sauvignon blanc, chablis, and Noilly Prat vermouth work well. Each has its own flavor, and will affect your end result. But go for the lighter whites, stay away from the sweet whites like sauternes and reislings, or oaky whites like chardonnay.

    Add the fish fumét.

    Gently simmer to reduce the stock, skimming off any foam from the surface, for about 5 hours.

    Simmer the fish Espagnole stock

    Strain and add the brown roux to the reduced stock. Simmer gently for another hour, stirring so it does not stick.

    Brown roux can sometimes have a pronounced flavor. Try the sauce, and if it has a floury flavor, simmer some more.

    Sauce Espagnole Maigre

    Remove from heat, strain, and stir occasionally until the sauce is completely cold.

    Lenten Espagnole sauce

    Ingredients
    65g (1/2 cup) diced carrots
    40g (1/4 cup) diced onions
    65g (3/4 cup) diced button or brown mushrooms
    35g (7 1/2 teaspoons) unsalted butter
    33g (2 tablespoons) tomato paste
    100g (1/2 cup) dry white wine
    1000g (4 cups) fish fumét
    2 sprigs fresh thyme
    1 fresh bay leaf
    125g (1 cup) brown roux

    Total time: Prep: 15 minutes, Cook: 6-8 hours

    Yields: 2-4 quarts of stock, depending on how long you simmer it.

    Equipment
    Salter digital scale
    Kitchen knife and cutting board
    Measuring bowls
    Large stockpot
    Wooden spoon
    Wire whisk
    Rubber spatula
    Strainer or chinois
    Medium Saucepan
    Plastic containers

  • 0013. Roux Brun, Brown Roux

    0013. Roux Brun, Brown Roux

     

    Escoffier recipe for making roux brun, brown roux, at home (Escoffier, 13).

    What is a roux? It’s a simple thickener, made with only two ingredients – butter and flour! Roux brun (“roo BROWN”), is made the same way as roux blanc and roux blond. The only difference is it’s cooked longer, until the flour turns a strong brown color. Its taste is described as very toasty or nutty.

     

    Mise en place for brown roux:
    Mise-en-place for making roux

     

    Roux Brun, Brown Roux

    Make some clarified butter, by melting the unsalted butter, skimming off its foam and saving the yellow butterfat.

    Make clarified butter

    Clarified Butter

    Mix the clarified butter and flour together in a heavy pan and cook on low heat, whisking for about 30-35 minutes — or until the flour turns a strong brown color.

    Brown Roux

    This dark roux may used to thicken up many types of gravies and heavy, darker sauces. When you cook the roux for this length of time, the clarified butter separates from the flour. Escoffier even suggests the butter may be saved for another use. I just stir it up to re-incorporate the oil a bit before using.

    When mixing a roux into sauce, be careful to either a: mix cold roux into a hot sauce, or b: mix hot roux into a cold sauce. This activates the starch so it will thicken your sauce.

    Clarified butter will separate from the brown roux

    White roux and blond roux are made the exact same way, only cooked for shorter lengths of time. Here’s a shot of them side-by-side for comparison. From left to right: white, blond and brown roux.

    White, Blond, and Brown Roux

    Ingredients
    225g clarified butter, unsalted
    275g sifted, all-purpose flour

    Equipment
    Salter digital scale
    Cutting board and kitchen knife
    Heavy-bottomed pan or medium saucepan
    Wire whisk
    Plastic container