Tag: mussels

  • Bouillon de Moules, Mussel Stock

    Bouillon de Moules, Mussel Stock

    Recipe for making bouillon de moules, or mussel stock, at home.

    Mussel Stock
    Escoffier mentions using the ‘cooking liquor,’ or broth, from mussels, in Le Guide Culinaire. But as with mushroom stock, there is no specific Escoffier recipe for mussel stock included. You can use the leftover broth from steaming mussels in white wine and lemon. But what ingredients specifically should you use?

    Mise-en-place for mussel stock

    This seafood stock is used in making Sauce Normande, and is based on one from the Alinea Restaurant cookbook. You can use either fresh fennel bulbs or fennel seed, depending on what you can get. I used a package of frozen greenshell mussels from New Zealand for this stock, but you could use any type you can find. I like a little extra kick in mine, so I use dry vermouth and a hint of absinthe to flavor the broth.

    Vermouth and absinthe for mussel stock

    In a medium stockpot, sauté the mirepoix of onion, celery and fennel (bulb or seed) in butter until translucent. Add the vermouth, absinthe (or any licorice-y spirit), bay leaf, peppercorns and bring to a gentle simmer.

    Add vermouth to the mirepoix

    Add the mussels and cover. Steam until the mussels open, about 5-10 minutes. If you are not eating them and want to get the maximum flavor from the mussels, steam for up to 30 minutes.

    Escoffier mussel broth

    Remove from the heat, let cool, and strain the broth into plastic containers. Reserve the mussels for another use or for eating!

    Ingredients
    35g (7 1/2 teaspoons) unsalted butter
    100g (2/3 cup) diced onion
    100g (2/3 cup) diced celery
    100g (2/3 cup) diced fennel bulb, or 4g (2 teaspoons) dried fennel seed
    375g (1 small bottle) Dolin dry vermouth
    25g (1 ounce, or 1 jigger) La Fée Absinthe Parisienne absinthe
    1 fresh bay leaf
    12 whole, black peppercorns
    1000g (2.2 pounds) fresh or frozen mussels

    Equipment
    Salter digital scale
    Kitchen knife and cutting board
    Measuring bowls
    Medium stockpot with lid
    Wooden spoon
    Rubber spatula
    Strainer or chinois
    Medium Saucepan
    Plastic containers

    Sources:
    A. Escoffier. H.L. Cracknell & R.J. Kaufmann, transl. Le guide culinaire: the complete guide to modern cookery.
    G. Achatz, D. Beran & N. Kokonas. Next Restaurant Paris 1906. eBook: Achatz, LLC, 2011.

     

  • 0139. Sauce Normande, Normandy Sauce

    0139. Sauce Normande, Normandy Sauce

     

    Escoffier recipe for making sauce normande, Normandy Sauce, at home (Escoffier 139).

    This sauce is special for serving with Sole Normande but also has a wide range of applications as a basis for other fish sauces. It is a very smooth, white, cream-based sauce with a light, but complex, taste. Perfect in recipes using whitefish, such as sole or tilapia.

    Not the easiest of recipes unless you already just happen to have some velouté de poisson, mushroom stock, mussel stock and fumét de poisson laying around…

    Mise en place for sauce normande:
    Mise en place for Normandy Sauce

     

    Sauce Normande

    In a large stockpot, whisk together fish velouté, mushroom stock, mussel stock and fish fumét. Bring to a simmer.

    In a bowl, whisk together lemon juice, egg yolks and 180g of heavy cream. Whisk this “sour” milk into the just-simmering sauce, and reduce it by one-third on low heat. This will take some time, as you’ll want to keep the heat low to avoid scorching the sauce.

    Once it has reduced, remove the sauce from the heat and strain into a clean saucepan. Finish the sauce by whisking in 114g of cubed, room temp butter and 120g of heavy cream.

    Let cool and store in a sealed plastic container.

    Normandy Sauce

    Ingredients
    660g (2 3/4 cups) fish velouté
    111g (1/2 cup) mussel stock
    130g (1/2 cup) mushroom stock
    167g (2/3 cup) fish fumét
    3g (1/2 teaspoon) lemon juice
    5 egg yolks
    180g (3/4 cup) heavy cream
    114g (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter
    120g (1/2 cup) heavy cream

    Equipment
    Salter digital scale
    Kitchen knife and cutting board
    Measuring bowls
    Large stockpot
    Wooden spoon
    Wire whisk
    Rubber spatula
    Strainer or chinois
    Medium Saucepan
    Plastic containers